Stitch Swap 2 - Sample 3 (Sample by Diana Walls)
Model: 1+ Preparation Draw a line on the fabric to indicate needle starting position. Instructions Row 1 Starting at your mark, stitch row A33, mirrored with "A" foot, SL 4.0, SW 6.0 Row 2 Enter stitch again (to ensure you are starting at the beginning of the stitch). At starting position, align foot to the left of the last row of stitching and stitch a second row. This row should follow the curves of the first row with appoximately 1/2" space in between (or as desired) This rows of stitches are just markers to easily mark curves for decorative stitches on you fabric Row 3 and 4 Using open toe applique foot, stitch F10, Stop on and needle down along curved lines from row 1 and 2. Stitch one stitch at a time, pivoting or turning as needed. The red line on you open toe applique foot will "point" the angle of you stitch. To keep the integrity of milt stitch decorative stitches, if you are stitching on a curve you need to pivot at the finish of the stitch. If you pivot or turn mid stitch the result is sloppy, poorly formed stitches. Keeping you needle in the down position and your stop on will allow you to keep the shape of the stitch and pivot. It is time consuming but well worth it! Row 5 In between you last rows, stitch D9 with a wing needle, SL 2.0, SW 5.0. Use your needle down position and your stop for the reasons listed above. Rows 6 and 7 On each side of your previous stitching, sew a row of D7 with your A foot. Your stop should be on and needle in the down position as explained previously.
Fabric: Stabilizer: Needle: Thread: Bobbin: Sewing Advisor:	100% Cotton batiste Rinse-away stabilizer Schmetz 80/12 Needle, Wing needle 100/16 Isafil Rayon 40 wt B Mettler 100% 60/2 Woven Medium

Stitch Swap 2 - Sample 4 (Sample by Eileen Tuss)
Model: 1+ This sample came from Tracy Helmer's The Awesome Automatic Taper. (I did the biker from this book on a T-shirt and was pleased with the results). My machine was in the shop and I was short of time, but I plan to try some other line drawings to use this stitch A17. The leaves were done in a 4.0 width and a S.L. of 0.2. The rose was done a 3.5 width and a S.L. of 3.0. If I were to do this again I think I would widen it to a 4.0 or 4.5 width. I reduced my pressure foot tension ot a 4 for ease in manipulating the curves, but because I did not maintain an even enough speed I have some of the stitching too far apart. At my Viking Club, the teacher used this on a table runner. Flowers spaced evently with strings of leaves inbetween. She also used it on a doily by cutting it in the shape of a circle. She edge finished one using entredeaux stitch D7. Another edge finish she used was scallops using 30 wt Sulky on the top and 40 wt Sulky in the bobbin with a 90/14 embroidery needle.
Fabric: Stabilizer: Needle: Thread: Bobbin: Foot: Sewing Advisor:	10 oz. cotton duck Stitch and tear stabilizer Denim to pierce the cotton duck Sulky verigated green 30wt. and Sulky red 40wt 60/2 open toe Woven Medium

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