After a member posted a question about Shirt board sources, Heidi wrote to the list and was kind enough to give the Shirt board directions that you will find below and in addition, sent us a picture of the board and a drawing. Heidi specializes in custom made Christening gowns and heirloom children's outfits.   If you haven't already stopped by her site, Heidi's Cyberstitches, you are in for a real treat. Wonderful work, Heidi and our hearty thanks for sharing.

To see a larger picture of the drawing and the Shirt board, click here

Heidi's Shirt board Instructions:

I use my shirt board to hold the outer hoop steady/straight when hooping shirts. I have it marked with my "usual" placement, so all I have to do is position the outer hoop, put the stabilized shirt on the board, place the inner hoop, remove from shirt board and then embroider. It is very quick and easy.

I made my own perfect shirt board using pegboards and a flat plastic hanger as a template. I went to my local hardware store and purchased a small (4" x 2"??) peg board. I laid the peg board down the wide way and measured the width of the hanger (that makes the peg board around 2 feet tall). I lined up my board on the holes again and cut a second piece. Then I lined up the two pieces so that the holes were aligned and attached them together. I screwed them, but you could probably also use liquid nails. Screws were easier for me.

Once the boards were joined to make one thick board I flayed my flat, plastic hanger on it to create the top "arch". I traced the outside of the hanger, cut off the excess and then screwed the hanger onto the board (that's how I put it away.) I wanted legs on my board so I purchased four door stops with rubber tips. They went on the back. Two in the lower corner and the other two half way up. That makes it easier to get a shirt on the board.

To hold my hoop in place I use wooden axle rods. The type that hold small wooden wheels on wooden cars. These lay mostly flat and don't interfere with the hooping.

With the excess peg board, I measured and found it to be double the width of a child's flat, plastic hanger. So, I cut it in half, lined up the holes and repeated the process, but I didn't put legs on this one. Lazy I guess, but it works just as wonderfully.

I've gotten tons of questions about how exactly I use the pegs, so here goes...To keep the hoop from moving I use something called "Axel Pegs", they are little wooden things used to hold wheels on wooden cars. I place them on the outside of outer hoop to keep it from slipping around. I don't "pin it down" per sei, but rather keep the top of the pegs (I call them nubs) to the outside of the hoop. That way when I place the inner hoop and go to hoop the next item, the pegs are in place already. I just have to set the outer hoop in the pegs and I'm ready to go. I'm sure my method is far from perfect, but for the price difference, I can work with it. This board is not brand specific. I'm sure it won't mind if you use hoops from other embroidery machines in the least.

All total, I have two very sturdy shirt boards in two different sizes for around $20. I sent my instructions to Sew News Magazine. They said they wanted to print them in an upcoming issue. As a reward, they extended my subscription, but I haven't seen the instructions yet. But you are all welcome to them. Happy embroidering.

Heidi
mailto:themacpack@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~themacpack

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